Ferguson TED20 - Reassembling the Hydraulic Lift Cover -Video
In this video Gordon from Waterhouse Forde takes you through the stages of reassembling the hydraulic lift cover for his Ferguson TED20.
'Making good progress with the Transmission case, in this video we reassemble the top cover - mostly.'
On their smallholding in north Devon Gordon, Kathy and Oscar spend many weekends working on their land and their tractors. In this video Gordon and Oscar takes you through the steps to help you reassemble the hydraulic lift cover on your Ferguson tractor and will walk you through each process, with advice along the way.
Visit their channel for more instructional videos for your tractor: Waterhouse Forde
Ferguson TED20 - Reassembling the Hydraulic Lift Cover -Video
hi everyone and welcome back to Waterhouse Forde. Today we've got another big job we want to put together the top cover of the transmission case so that's all of the hydraulics and lift arms and hydraulic cylinder etc etc so we're going to show you how to do that.
Oscar’s gonna help for a bit and then he needs to go off later so I doubt that he'll be with us all the time but we'll see how much we can get done. I'm hoping we're going to finish this job today but there's a few bits that I'm not entirely sure about and I know that there's one part that we still need to - we still need to get, so but I'll talk you through that as we go. So yeah this is how we do it, follow along and we hope you enjoy.
So as you can see we've got lots of different parts some new some cleaned up and ready to go back in. But let's talk about the new parts for a minute. The main one is obviously the gasket set. Now there is quite a lot of crossover between this gasket set and the gasket set that we had last week for the hydraulic pump. So for example you get a hydraulic pump gasket in here, you also get the side cover gaskets and in fact you get the valve cover gaskets for the hydraulic pump as well so this is A68551. Now the reason we needed this kit was obviously we wanted the bottom sorry the top cover gasket which is obviously that goes on here but we also need a couple of these smaller gaskets that are for the hydraulic cylinder that goes on here. And then also we've got the backup washer and o-ring for the hydraulic piston which we'll talk about in a few minutes as well.
So if you, if you, would just if, you’re doing the top cover then this is the set to get. If you're only doing the hydraulic pump then the set that we showed you last week that would be the one to get. So again this is A68551.
Right the other one that we've got here, so heavy, but this is the hydraulic cylinder so this is A68259 and you'll recall when we took ours apart we had all the terrible scoring inside, so we do need to replace this. And this looks like a very good example of one, let’s get it open. Now the camera won't pick up inside there but that bore is beautiful and smooth. I wouldn't say a mirror finish because that would be bad but smooth like it should be, with the right kind of honed marks on it. Anyway good quality hydraulic cylinder there that we will need, we well. So, we’ll get rid of the box. Just a reminder A68259.
Right now what we need now basically is a piston to go in there and there's two options here A90940 gives you the piston now this is the piston that that style that takes the backup water and the o-ring instead of the three metal rings that we had on the one that we took out. But, the kit, the piston does not come with that which is why you need this gasket set you've got inside there just - see it peeking through the bottom there, you've got the leather backup washer and there's also a rubber o-ring in there.
Now to get that on you have to soak the leather backup washer in oil overnight, let it and stretch it, and basically stretch that over the piston and get that on first and then get the rubber o-ring on. However Anglo also sent me a, essentially a pre-assemble piston which I believe has the o-ring and the backup water up pre-installed, there you go. So you can see, that's how they go, hopefully the camera can see this, but you got the backup water in the bottom and o ring up at the top and that basically goes in to the cylinder. Now this I believe this this actual piston comes from the Ford series of tractors, I think it was the, the 2n + 6 n + 18 or something like that.
This is actually the part for the Ford tractor but it's identical to the ones for the Ferguson, and most people these days when doing this job are using this style rather than the original Ferguson style where you had the three cast iron, metal rings so those are no longer done. And the reason why is because those rings actually they do eventually allow the oil to seep through the gaps in the rings, and that's why when you when you stop your tractor you've got implement up, eventually over time the implement will actually sink down because the oil is basically managing to find its way through between the gaps and those rings unless you're really lucky and you managed to get your rings your ring gap to be a hundred percent or next to 100 percent closed - which isn't really advisable because you need a bit of space for heat expansion and contraction from heating and cooling.
So anyway bottom line is get yourself one of these rather with the backup washer and o ring and you won’t look back. Again if you get the A90940 and if you've got this kit anyway then you get basically the backup washer and the o-ring in it as well. So either way you can go and it will work.
Okay so so that's it. The other thing that I need to tell you when we took out the cross shaft the left arm cross shaft you'll recall I spoke quite a bit about the pitting that we've got going on here I have tried to find a replacement shaft. The fact of the matter is they no longer manufacture them, nobody's making them so you cannot by them new. And I've heard that from Anglo, and have had that from a couple of other sources as well.
I did try to, find a second hand one that was in better condition but to be honest most of them seem to suffer from this pitting anyway and the solution I've been advised is to use, rather and use the phosphor bronze bush, is to use these soft steel bushes. Now you'll also notice that it's basically half the length that it of the original. So you can see there you need basically you need two per side. Now unfortunately I only managed to get two so far, so for today what I'm going to do is I'm going to put one on each side and then afterwards, later on when I get the other two I'll pop them in from the outside before the thing actually goes back on the tractor. But just to be able to complete the video today and to show you the whole job we're just going to put one on either side push them right in up against the lift lever, and then later on I can come back and just pop the two in from the from the side, from the outside of the top cover just by removing the two lift arms and getting those bushes back in. So that's what we're going to be doing with that.
It's also worth noting if I, Oscar can you just pass me you see that ring that's lying there, on the top, that. And then the parts that next to it. Yeah so this is the original spring support which as you can see has broken or was broken when we took it out. I cleaned this one up and I thought that these two parts were independent, cleaned it up and then obviously I saw once I cleaned it that that's actually meant to be a single part. As I say Anglo have actually sent me the replacement for that. But the other thing I noticed is that this, these getting broken, ie this breaking seems to be a very common fault. I'm not sure why and I'm also not sure what the solution is to that, but bear in mind if you open if you take yours out and you find that this is in two parts it basically means it's broken and it will need to be replaced.
I'm trying to find out if anybody knows why that breaks, because to me there's not a whole bunch of pressure or weight or anything on this part once its installed, and if it's installed properly. But I'm also trying to find out whether there's ever been any kind of improvement made perhaps to try and make that a bit stronger. But my research so far has not turned up anything, so just be aware that, that is not meant to be two parts.
Okay so we're going to get on now, we're going to start putting everything together. Now we’ll try to do it systematically and we'll show you, will show you how it's done. Right what you can see now we've, we've cleaned out the top cover we've also resprayed inside here so we sand, sand or beat blasted that within. I cleaned it with the wire brush and sandpaper as best I could, and then we sprayed it with three coats of grey, sorry two coats of grey primer, and then one coat of hard temperature silver. Well it’s a grey really, it’s not silver but it doesn't it's not, it doesn't have to be the right color it's the inside of the tractor so it really doesn't matter what color it is. But really I just wanted to protect the surface so that it's protected against their corrosion that we found obviously when we opened it up.
So that was the main objective. I think there's a reasonable job now. Right the first thing we want to do is we're going to put the lever in. The next thing we're going to do is slide the shaft in. But to do that, but before we do that we want to put a bit of grease on the spline. So Oscar if you bring the grease. Actually I think before we do that what I'll probably do is just put one of these bushes in. It doesn't matter which side, you can see these bushes are nice, nice and smooth in there now.
Okay that's proving a little more difficult than I thought. but what I've done now I've actually marked on here where the master spline is. So on the outside we can see now where, where the master spline is and also we're going to leave the bush out for now we'll put that in once some once we've got this shaft in.
So right let's try that again. So now we can see the spline, and it's there.
Erm this thing isn't, okay now push.
So that has gone pretty much all the way through – much easier
Then we’re going to slide that on.
So yeah, if you try and slide that bush on.
It might need a bit more of a slide.
Yeah, it’s going to …
Need a bit of a whack!
Yeah, get the wooden mallet rather .
Okay so the first thing you want to do is knock it straight because it's not straight, can you see that?
Right, sadly the camera stopped recording, and before we realized it we've gone on ahead. So we've had to undo everything a little bit and we're going to repeat what we were doing. So obviously for the benefit of the, of the video.
But essentially what we've got now, we've got this shaft in, you saw up to us putting the bearing in from the side. We managed to get the other bearing in as well, actually the second one was a lot easier, but that now is, is in.
The next job is to pop the, so let's just move these out of the way Oscar. So what I want to do is get the cylinder, piston into the cylinder. So the first thing we do is oil the piston and then a little bit in the cylinder as well. Okay in the cylinder, and that actually, okay let's just wipe it around. Okay and we just slide that in and as as, as it gets to the o-ring you want to just twist it so that it, the o ring doesn't get caught on the edge - and then push it down and Oscar is going to feel the air pressure coming out the hole at the bottom. And push it all the way down to the bottom, it just makes the rest of the job easier. Right, now what we're going to do is get the piston, sorry the cylinder, onto the top cover and we're then move on and start connecting all of the control arms and leaders.
Now there's a set of gaskets that we that we need here so we've got this one which comes at what's essentially the back of the piston, sorry the cylinder and, there’s a bit of dirt there – no it’s just grease. And, and then you've got these two rings, of gasket material that sit there, and basically this obviously this gasket seals the hole where the hydraulic pressure comes in and these two are really just there to keep the cylinder level, we're at the same height, basically to match the thickness of that gasket on the, on the two front mounting points.
Now to keep these in place we're just pop a little bit of grease on those please Oscar.
Ok so now we've got the gaskets on with the gaskets in the right place. The thing to note, I've put these bolts in, you can see the long ones go basically to the back, short ones at the front. You can tell that from the thickness of the top cover, obviously I can’t show you that on camera but they need to go, sorry so the short ones go at the, what's essentially the front of the tractor but the back of the cylinder.
Now this is an important part, it's important to remember to assemble this lever and assembly because that has to go into this cylinder before you put it into the top cover as you won't be able to get it on - so let's do that quickly and get this out of the way, give ourselves a bit of space to work.
Now this has cotter pins, obviously with split pins on the other end. So let's just work this out. So this arm rides across to your draft control, as you can see it runs into the piston, sorry into the cylinder over there.
It can't go that way because you can see it won't fit in, so you can only go one way. This rides in there, and rides up against the cylinder on these two tabs here. So those two tabs sit on the front of the cylinder and for all intents and purposes, they stop the piston from coming out when this is far forward, or as far forward as it will go.
So the thing to do is to get those get this assembled first. It doesn't matter which way round the pins go. I think it's neater to put them in from the outside, so the heads are on the outside like that, and put the split pin is on the middle, or on the inside - it's up to you can do it whichever way you prefer.
Right so that sits inside there like that, your lever needs to be on top, if you see what I mean. And now you can make sure that our washers haven’t moved.
Right the next job is to get this into the cylinder. And it's a bit of a fiddle, there we go. Now we gotta line up all the bolts and make sure that the washers don't move those gaskets. Get that all in. Making sure that the gaskets are in all the way around – it doesn't hurt to double-check yep those are all in. We've got the lever in, we’ve got this lever in, and that is the arm, is able to be connected to, into the piston, was to sorry, to the piston in the cylinder which we'll do in a second.
Right so that's in now, we can turn this up and put the nuts on the back here to hold the cylinder in place.
When you put the top cover back on the tractor all the bolts that run around the outside they have to be torqued. I think is somewhere between 40 and 50 psi. I need to double, I need to look it up but these bolts get torqued at the same time to pretty much the same, well to the same amount. So right that’s tight enough for now.
So what we've got now, we've got the piston in the cylinder. We’ve got the cylinder arm, this is the control arm, and then we've got the draft control arm connected as well. Now when the, when I get that cotterpin I realized what I've done is I've actually sent it away to be remade because it will badly pitted and I haven't had it back yet, so I need to follow up on that, and I'll get that in afterwards. But you can see here these lips, they will actually be quite close up to the cylinder and if the piston were to come all the way out they will prevent the piston from coming out of the cylinder - obviously that would be bad if that happened. So it's important that you get those lips lined up and that this lever goes the right way.
Okay, so let's carry on. Next thing is to get this leaver in. Now this one fits this way - these lugs ride up against this smooth edge - if you see what I mean. And again you just got two cotter pins that come through here and hold that in place - so let's get those in quickly.
Now I need to rework the… somebody worked on this lever before, and they're welded up, welded up, I think I showed that in the video where we dismantled this top cover, and I think the clearances are not quite right. So I suspect yeah, we've got a couple of burrs on here which I think is probably preventing those, these pins from going in quite as far, or rather these two coming together properly. So we'll just take this off and I'm just going to deburr this a little bit and then we'll come back.
Now I’ve just some paper towel on to stop any of, you know the metal shavings or dirt or whatever going in there.
Now, lets just see how that fits in there. I think that's going to be a lot better.
And now, I also just polished these pins that a little bit to make sure that they slide in a little bit easier, it's not, I didn't want to make them loose. I imagine they, you don't want them sloppy basically so I didn't want to make them any looser. I just wanted them to make, to be polished so that I can be sure that they are as tight as possible without them sticking. Right so that can go straight in now which is fantastic.
Oh there we go, so that's our control arm lever now in. We've got our cylinder in, the piston in, the only thing we don't have in at this stage that we should have is obviously the draft control lever - but we'll get that in, we'll have to do that later.
Now one thing we can do, put this spring on. We will take it off later again, when you want to put the hydraulic quadrant on - that's not quite ready to go on yet. But when you want to put that on it's better to take the spring off, push this lever as far back this way as you can, get that get the hydraulic quadrant lever on - and that obviously rides up against this face down here - and then you pull, then you put the spring on to pull it back up against that lever, that just makes it a bit easier to actually get that in that way. So but for now we, I just want to do that just to keep it out of the way.
Right final job really is to get the, the piston connecting rod in. Now I know some people have some interesting names for this - I won't repeated on the channel because it’s a family channel after all. So we're just put a bit of grease on the ends here, again this will all be running in oil, although not entirely, because obviously the oil doesn't quite reach up to the top. But it will get a bit of splash lubrication as the, as the tractor was working. But anyway put a bit of grease on there just to keep everything nice and lubed up for now, and then we've got this pin that goes through and obviously split pin again on the other side.
Now in this instance I'm not actually going to bend over the split pin because I suspect I'm going to have to take this out again when I want to try and get this draft control deeper in, so I'm going to just put it in - just very, every so slightly just clip that up. And just bend one of the legs – difficult! There, that’s enough just to hold it in place and then we’ll get that sorted out when the time comes.
Right I think I'm going to leave it there for today - that's probably about as far as we can go at this stage. We need to get the bushes in, so there's no point putting the lift arms on just yet. I also think it'll be easy to put the lift arms on when this is back on the tractor.
More importantly it’ll be easier to handle this without the lift arms on, whilst we’re putting everything
back on the tractor.
Again all parts are supplied by Anglo Agri parts - you can visit them at anglo-agriparts.com and I’m sure that they'll be happy to help find and will supply the parts that you need for your tractor and for whatever restoration job you're doing.
We thank them for the support and I hope that you will help by supporting them as well. So once again thanks for joining us and we look forward to joining you on the next video. Cheers for now.
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